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Where we are: Early April 2007

Here's the map of our route into Mexico so far. Today we're in Zacatecas (leaving Monday going south). The red sections are the parts we biked, and the blue are other forms of transportation (the train into Copper Canyon, a truck to the bottom of the canyon at Batopilas, and the bus from Durango to Zacatecas).
There are new pictures on the photos page...

Parral to Durango and then Zacatecas


DSC03656
Originally uploaded by refay.
March 21, 2007 to April 7th Parral to Zacatecas Riding the high plains of northern Mexico was peaceful enough with arid high plains, scattered stunted dark colored trees like scrub oaks and what I thought was nut trees. The was little traffic and what traffic there was gave us lots of space and many waves and friendly beeps from their cars. The high plains were broken up with a few river valleys which we descended to find the area blooming with the newness of spring and planted with apple orchids, corn fields, and other cultivated fields. It turned out that the month of March is the windy season and we were greeted with varying strengths of winds through out this stretch in northern Mexico.

About 56 kilometers (35 miles) south Parral as we rode into the town of Las Nieves, the wind blew sheets of dust across the town, the roads and us. It was so impressive to see the wind blowing sideways full of the dust and particles of the arid landscape. We bought a few things to eat from the local Pemex gas station and continued on our way to find Poncho Villa’s Villa in Canutillo. The villa was a run-down complex with a handful of building with large photos and a bit of history about this Mexican who both was a local hero, a famous general of the Mexican revolution, and renegade (from the perspective of the U.S.). After the visit to the museum we decided to find a hotel because we both were sick with a cold and did not have the energy to continue. We found a clean economical room next to the bus stop which we laid low for two days recovering from our ailments.

We headed out two days later feeling somewhat better. The winds where more gentle and the landscape was the same.

Riding from Parral
Several nights we camped in the desert along this stretch along with what Randy calls the Mexican brown bears (cows). It was so nice to have such quietness in the vast dry landscape. It gives me a well needed break from the cities, the little pueblo with dogs that bark at us in the nights, the cars booming with music that have to pound the sense out of the youth that drive around in these moving music jukeboxes and the constant attempts to speak a new language I know so little of. The nights we camp I have come to treasure more then I knew.

(You may want to click the "read more" below to continue - this is a long one.)

Zacatecas from above - and finding directions

Here's a view of Zacatecas from above. If you click on it you'll get a bigger version and you can see the entire city center. It's an amazing place, with (too many) places to go and things to see. All beautiful, all the old, colonial city.

One of the issues any time we're trying to find out way around is that (1) we don't understand everything people say and (2) they don't necessarily give good directions. For example, if we ask for directions to some site, they may say "straight, straight, straight, just straight". But it turns out that you come to a "T". What do you do then? (Ask again, over and over, of course).

And sometimes there are no signs on a business. In one little town we were looking for an internet "cafe". It turned out there was one, but we had to find our way to the "yellow house". There was no sign at all on said "yellow house", but we did find it and it did in fact have several computers with very slow internet access. When everybody in a town knows where everything is, who needs a sign?  read more here... lee mas aquí... »

Zacatecas band winding through the streets

In Zacatecas there is a tradition (I think especially on Saturday nights) of bands winding their way through the streets - kind of a roving party. People follow them around and drink mezcal. We heard one on Saturday night and followed it all over the city - it seemed like we went though every little alley. They were amazing entertainers. They always had something new going. The funniest thing was when we were going through a narrow alley and a dog was barking at us from a balcony above. The whole party stopped, and the band started a piece that involved barking. Every so often they'd stop and we (the whole crowd) would bark back at the dog!

Update: New Pictures and a Podcast (Audio)

It's been a while since we updated you with our location and route and everything, so we have a number of things for you:
  • Our location: We're in Parral, about 200 miles south of Chihuahua, having exited the southeast end of the Copper Canyon region. Nancy did up a wonderful new map of our route (below) so you can see our route.
  • New pictures: There are a lot of new pictures on the photos page.
  • Podcast: We have started an experimental podcast (audio listen) for you. Click the Podcast button on the top of the page.

Randy at breakfast


DSC03403 randy at breakfast
Originally uploaded by refay.
Randy enjoying a typical Mexicana breakfast: Instant coffee, Huevos Rancho a la Mexicana (Eggs with tomatoe, onion, peppers (the color of the Mexican flag is Red, white and Green) with tortillas and beans.

We have decided this dish is an excellent meal to power us on our bike ride. (Protein, Fat, and carbohydrates). Tamales are another food we have discovered is an excellent biking food.

Road down to batopilas


DSC03339 road down to batopilas
Originally uploaded by refay.
The ribbon road down to Batopolis is one of the most amazing road engineering projects. The road twists its way down 5000 feet (1800 meters) through 5 ecosystems and millions of years of rock formations.

If you look very closely at this photo you may see the foot paths and used by the Tarahumara (Raramuri) Indians to access the resources of this canyon and the way the people of this region travel to and from the outback.

We hitched a ride down to the bottom with four Canadians driving this dusty, teeth rattling, back jarring road. It took around 5 hours to drive this 65k (40 mile) road. Around every corner was a new photo opportunity. We also hitched back with a kind couple from Mexico City who had hired a guide to bring them down and back up to creel.
(Thank you folks for the ride and the time we had to share).

The road was only really wide enough for one car so if another vehicle came around the corner, one of the drivers had to back up or down the road to a spot wide enough for both to squeeze by.

Batopilas aquaduct


DSC03391 batopilas aquaduct
Originally uploaded by refay.
This trail follows the aquaduct in the bottom of Copper Canyon in the town of Batopilas. Nancy hiked up around 5 miles toward Cerro Colorado.

Along the way she swam in the Rio Batopilas river, panned for silver, meet a goat herder, and also a guide on a horse returning from a 3 day trip to Urique and back to Batopolis. Most stunning were the flowering cactus and trees found in this deep desert canyon.
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